Colonial Beauty Standards – The End Of Self-Expression
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder portrays a subjective state of beauty preached by philosophers such as Hume stating “Beauty is no quality in things themselves every individual ought to acquiesce in his own sentiment, without pretending to regulate those of others. ” (Hume 1757, 136). Whilst Aristotle argued that beauty is a matter of mathematical ratios, drawing emphasis on the objective nature of beauty: “The chief forms of beauty are order and symmetry and definiteness, which the mathematical sciences demonstrate in a special degree” (The Complete Works of Aristotle Barnes ed. , volume 2, 1705). From these differing opinions, a definition of beauty is difficult to derive. What classifies as beauty? Is beauty objective or subjective? Beauty is considered absolute; however, the appreciation of beauty is relative to the aesthetic sense of individuals and the cultural context they belong from. (Ruckstuhl, F. Wellington, and F. W. Ruckstuhl, Plato). Just as intelligence has no clear definition, so does beauty. Thus, if beauty is indefinable how does one classify normal beauty standards? Over the course of history, prevalent beauty standards have emerged with an emphasis on Eurocentric qualities. Fair skinned, plump, elegant young women were associated with the empire, with aristocratic backgrounds. These European standards are prevalent in the United States with African American women being subjected to “ serve and satisfy others and made to hide their true selves to placate White colleagues, Black men, and other segments of the community” (Jones and Shorter-Gooden) This creates low self-esteem, decreasing chances of success (Meyers and Biocca ).
Beauty is limited to acceptability rather than self-expression. The use of the term ‘ alternative beauty’ creates the perception of an inferior form of self-expression than ‘normal beauty’ setting a dangerous precedent due to the fact that firstly, colonialism has solidified stringent beauty standards cross culturally causing a lack of alternative self-expression out of fear of social ostracism especially in Asia and South America. Secondly, the glamorisation of ‘normal’ beauty standards by the media has produced a wide plethora of issues ranging from psychological trauma to anorexia. Thirdly, the unrealistic targets fed by the multibillion dollar beauty industry create a rise in demand for cosmetic surgery which can be potentially harmful for individual’s health. Hence, all forms of beauty should be celebrated. Historically, global perception of beauty was derived on the basis of skin, with fair skinned individuals being associated with higher social standing e. g. Brahmins, whilst working class labourers were classified as inferior with tan complexions (Abraham, Mary Rose). The plump, fair skinned female image was cross-culturally identified. Post colonisation, a Eurocentric image of beauty was solidified with the European aristocracy symbolising the epitome of beauty. By the 18th century the emergence of the ‘Hour Glass’ figure solidified the ‘normal’ beauty standards of the 21st century. Currently, with a rise in globalisation, the Eurocentric beauty image has been ingrained cross-culturally (Sekayi, Dia).
In Asia, the Subcontinent serves as an integral example in understanding the effects of colonialism on beauty standards. In the Subcontinent, the common perception prevails that if one differs from Eurocentric beauty standards, they are socially ostracised. Dark skinned women are considered ‘inferior’. “This is not bias, this is racism. There is a whiteness travelling from the US to shopping malls in other countries” - Sunil Bhatia (Abraham, Mary Rose). Majority Sub continental parents believe that if their daughters are dark skinned or overweight, no man will marry their daughters, bringing shame upon the family. Colourful hair, provocative clothing, tattoos etc are classified as deviances. Women work tirelessly to maintain their shape and complexion. Spending on skin whitening products is projected to triple to $31. 2bn by 2024(Global Industry Analysts). The European filter is prevalent in most discourse produced by the media with homogenisation of actors. The ‘Male Gaze’ (Mulvey, Laura) perpetuates ageism in the sub-continental population with women beyond a certain age being labelled as ‘unsuitable for marriage’. This over whelming perception of beauty undermines the concept of individuality, and perpetuates homogenisation for security. Women engage in plastic surgery for self affirmation, ignoring individual beauty as a medium for self-expression.
The same can be applied to Korea, where Gangnam Street hosts some 300 plastic surgeons (Wang, Yuqing. ). Seoul rejects alternative beauty such as Tattoos connecting them to deviance, rather than self expression (Neutral, Grace exploring Korea). In Brazil, the globalisation of beauty standards led to rising racism and a booming cosmetology sector (Neutral, Grace Discovering the Brazilian) with emphasis on recreating the exotic image of women perpetuated by the media. The media is a known perpetuator of normal beauty standards with magazines such as Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue shaping perspectives. Majority recognised models all share similarities illustrating a homogenisation in beauty. If the gap between ethnicity is narrowing, weight and age are still key determinants of beauty. Models are altered using Photoshop, setting unrealistic targets for young individuals (Salzaar, Monica). These unrealistic standards restrict self-expression within their perimeters (Goldman, Adria, Damion Waymer). Young individuals feel increasingly pressurised to conform to society’s narrative, causing a rise in psychological issues and physical illnesses including depression, anxiety, anorexia etc. Most psychological issues are caused by the objectification of women in the media, increasing insecurity amongst young women, whilst instigating negative attitudes towards women not meeting societal standards causing bullying (Krcmar), increasing risks of suicide. The objectification has also glorified violence against women, especially amongst women whom match the eroticised version of beauty by the ‘Male Gaze’. Anorexia is a prevalent problem especially in America with an estimate 0. 9% of the female population falling prey to anorexia (National Association of Anorexia Nervosa and Associated Disorders).
Anorexia has the highest death rate of any psychiatric illness (Jung, Jaehee, Gordon B. Forbes). The mortality rate associated with anorexia is 12 times higher than the death rate of all causes of death for females 15-24 years old. (Mirasol recovery centre) 5-10% anorexics die in the span of 10 years. Establishing the link between colonialism and current beauty standards deriving from media reinforcement of prevalent narratives, it can be stated that normal beauty standards are highly specific causing difficulty in conformity. Thus, what is an effective solution to the problem? It’s plastic surgery. Cosmetology is expanding with its scope in regions such as Korea. In cooperation with the magnanimous beauty industry, cosmetology provides a medium for ostracised individuals to feel ‘normal’. In Korea, 60% of women get cosmetic surgery done in their twenties, largely reinforced by the K Pop phenomenon (Neutral, Grace. Korea’s illegal beauty scene).
Whilst this cosmetology boom has contributed positively to the economy, the dark side of cosmetology is often ignored. Body dysmorphic disorders, Hematoma and Nerve damage are amongst the many harms of cosmetology. Cosmetic surgery may fail as in the case of Donatella Versace, whose experience presents an unexpected outcome. With skin whitening treatments, greater skin exposure to pollutants leads to skin cancer. (Abraham, Mary Rose) General criticism towards blurring beauty’s perimeters is that individuals prefer to be treated as unique connecting alternative to positive satisfaction. Contrastingly, the whole argument for anormal beauty is centred on the need to liberate self-expression thus, if women want to express themselves using plastic surgery, can they really be told not to? Ultimately, women have the right to chose what to do with their bodies regardless of their motivators (Davis K). Further arguments arise from the fact that positive steps are being taken to create a more inclusive approach with social consciousness in fashion i. e. plus size models etc and movements such as ‘Dark is Divine’ (Fatima Lodhi), and ‘Dark is beautiful’ (Kavitha Emmanuel) thus, is there really a need to define the perimeters of beauty when the shift is fluid?
Furthermore, Makeup can be liberating with its usage by the LGBTQ community as a medium of self expression. Answering above criticisms, firstly, uniqueness is retained; the argument rests upon how labelling beauty as alternative creates a sphere of inferiority cross-culturally. Thus, labelling all beauty as anormal retains the uniqueness while safeguarding positive aspects of beauty. Secondly, females certainly retain the right to alter their appearance however; the question rests upon the fact that if this need is societal, then is it really the individuals choice, or society’s narrative? (Morgan KP) Thirdly, the over exemplified efforts to illustrate their cultural consciousness presents an imperative issue: that whilst representation in fashion may have increased cross culturally, is it really because all beauty is celebrated or because these huge corporations wish to maintain an accepting image? Fourthly, makeup is a medium of self expression however, in general terms; makeup is utilised to hide ones ‘imperfections’ hence, to conform with popularised beauty standards. Beauty is an integral form of self-expression. Hence, if all individuals are considered beautiful regardless of what culture they belong from, or what strata of society they originate, then humanity can truly move towards a paradigm of positivity. After deliberation of the negative aspects of normal beauty standards, and the dangers of addressing individuals as alternatives, it can be concluded that all forms of beauty should be celebrated as mediums of self expression without any discrimination or preconceived rhetoric thus, beauty should be considered ‘anormal’.
