History Of Knitwear: From Undergarments To A-List Style
A beautiful piece of knitwear is the perfect addition to any wardrobe, but have you ever wondered about where your favourite cashmere designs come from? Whether you prefer fine gauge cashmere knitwear, smart ribbed styles, or cable cashmere jumpers and cardigans to keep warm, knitwear never goes out of fashion. Let us take you on a journey through the origins of knitwear and explore the different types that feature in our collection. Many of the styles of today have been perfected over the decades to end up in your wardrobe so discover their origins below.
Today we think of knitwear as a chic and essential addition to any winter outfit, with plenty of luxurious styles and textures to choose from. However, pre-14th century, double-needle knitting by hand was primarily a technique used with sheep’s wool to create socks and stockings, and later undergarments for nobility in the 16th century. Popular knitting techniques in Europe at the time were fairly simplistic and included cable, knot stitches, and reverse stocking stitches. The international trading of different wools allowed styles and techniques to become more advanced over the centuries, while the Industrial Revolution also presented new approaches. Knitting machines were first used during this period, and along with other inventions of the time like the ‘spinning Jenny’ and power looms, it became easier to create different knitwear styles and intricate patterns on a larger scale, thus influencing mass production and advanced styles. While this would ultimately lead knitwear to become an everyday part of our sartorial style, there were a few unusual stops along the way. For example, knitted wool was originally used for swimsuits during the Edwardian era and later sportswear – a far cry from the breathable fabrics we favour today.
Similarly, each culture across the world had its own traditions and styles of knitwear, developing unique and varied patterns, colours and designs. Native Americans were among the first to wear ponchos, while Fair Isle jumpers became the signature style in Nordic countries. It was the people of Mongolia, Nepal and Kashmir who started using cashmere thousands of years ago, before it was brought to French and British shores. This luxuriously soft fabric has since become an essential part of our business with authentic sustainable origins in the mountain regions in Mongolia.
Knitwear Becomes A Luxury Item
By the early 20th century, knitwear had become the byword in luxurious leisurewear. In 1916, iconic French fashion designer Coco Chanel introduced casualwear to the catwalk to create luxurious striped knitted jerseys (which remains of one the most-loved fashion trends even today), combining metallic yarns with chic, feminine cuts. This shift in fashion consciousness eventually gave way to fine-knit twin sets and turtle-neck jumpers worn by Hollywood stars like Marilyn Monroe, who paired these fitted styles with the high waisted skirts of the era. Proving it’s a timeless look, you can take inspiration and pair our Cable Knit Cropped Cashmere Jumper in Burgundy Red with our Milano Maxi Skirt in Black. This look eventually evolved to comfortable casual knitwear inspired by Scandinavian styles throughout the ‘60s, ‘70s and ‘80s, with mass production making knitwear products quicker and easier to produce for day-to-day clothing.
Weft And Warp Knits: What’s The Difference?
Today good craftsmanship is what defines a long-lasting piece of knitwear and there are a number of techniques used to create this. Although there’s one type of knitting, various stitches help create different patterned knitwear. The finished look can vary depending on everything from the type of yarn used, the technique and also the size of the knitting needles. One of the oldest techniques is the classic weft knit. Dating back to the 11th Century when all knitting was carried out by hand, weft knitting involved weaving stitches from left to right, running across the fabric in a horizontal direction. Examples of weft knitting include cable, rib, purl, and plain knits. The less popular warp technique is more complicated than weft and is usually completed by a machine or loom rather than by hand. Traditionally the warp technique is used for finer knitwear patterns such as raschel, milanese, and tricot designs, and uses vertical stitches in a downwards direction. Because of its elasticity and ability to keep you warm in all weathers, weft knitting is the most popular stitch for knitwear accessories and larger items like jumpers and cardigans. Warp knitting is usually reserved for delicate trims and linings on a variety of clothing including skirts and outerwear.
